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I remember the first time I travelled to Temiskaming Shores. I thought I knew; generally speaking, what to expect from Northern Ontario. Rugged isolation, beauty, charm; yes, yes, and yes. Temiskaming Shores offers those in spades. However, I was not prepared for the diversity of terrain in this community and its surrounding areas, which, as it turns out are really best experienced by snowmobile.
Temiskaming Shores consists of the amalgamation of the communities of New Liskeard, Haileybury, the township of Dymond, and it sits atop the shores of incredible Lake Temiskaming, an extension of the Ottawa Valley. It is historically significant along ancient trade routes, bordering both Ontario and Quebec, and as part of an ancient rift valley it is geologically fascinating with monumental features like the Devil’s Rock. The lake offers stunning shorelines, interspersed with many streams and rivers. But, it also has expansive farmlands not normally seen in Northern Ontario, and just beyond that, more wilderness, sometimes almost mountainous riding terrain. The community also punches well above its weight with its cultural offerings and amenities. Really, there’s a best-of-all-worlds kind of a thing going on here. And I have not even mentioned the incredible snowmobile trails yet!
The Perfect Base: The Waterfront Inn
When I was looking for the perfect spot to enjoy my trip, I quickly settled on the Waterfront Inn. Nestled on the lake, the hotel's location is not only scenic, but also incredibly convenient with direct access to the snowmobile trails from the lakeshore. It is also walking distance to downtown New Liskeard with the local beverage shops, coffee spots, restaurants, and nightlife just steps from your door. Waking up to the serene views of the lake was a treat, and knowing that I could hop on my sled and hit the trails right from the hotel made everything even better. The rooms were cozy and comfortable, with a lobby restaurant and bar called 28 on the Lake overlooking the frozen lake dotted with ice fishing huts. What more can you ask for?
There are several other overnight options, and waterfront accommodations are plentiful in the area, which ensures a nice mix of privacy, views, and convenient access to the trails. For something a little more secluded, be sure to check out Sunnydale Cottages, as well.
Thrilling Trails: Snowmobiling in Elk Lake
Of course, the main event of the trip was the snowmobiling. I loved exploring the lake and river trails right from my hotel. But another one of the standout moments was riding in nearby Elk Lake, which offered more wilderness riding. We accessed the area via the Elk Lake Wilderness Resort, which offers cozy & private cabin rentals, hot food, and just so happens to be a snowmobiler's paradise. The camp has direct trail access to some of the most perfectly groomed trails you can imagine. It was the perfect base camp for exploring the area.
I was guided by the fantastic folks from the Tri-Town Sno Travellers, the local snowmobile club that maintains the trail system. They take great pride in their trail system, and it shows. The trails were impeccably groomed, and the scenery was rugged and beautiful. They took me to the beautiful old railway bridge, now converted for snowmobiles. We also stopped at an incredible lookout, elevated high above the river valley. There was a significant climb in elevation, and it is not far from the main rail trail and clearly marked. You could see for miles, this would be a great spot to experience the sunset. It is definitely a must stop in the area. We ended the day checking out some of the windier logging roads, which was like a roller coaster ride with nice sweeping twists, turns, ups, and downs that you could take at a decent speed. Perfect trails with beautiful scenery throughout.
Exploring The Downtown areas of New Liskeard and Haileybury
When not on the trails, I was exploring the charming and walkable waterfront community. New Liskeard and Haileybury’s downtown areas offer a variety of shops, cafes, restaurants, and historical sites, right on the water. They were a joy to stroll through and take pictures of the old architecture and the lake dotted with ice fishing huts.
One of the local highlights we stumbled upon was the breakfast at the Haileybury Legion. They do this every Saturday and Sunday from 8:00am to 12:00pm. For around $10, with local vendors selling their wares, this is a great stop for a good cause as funds go to support the legion and maintain the aging building. There, I was able to buy some of the best strawberry rhubarb jam EVER from a couple local vendors, and the bacon and eggs were doled out in generous portions. Highly recommend!
More Culinary Delights
Temiskaming Shores boasts some fantastic dining options that cater to every taste. During my stay, I had the pleasure of dining at several great spots. The Whiskeyjack Beer Company stood out. It's a must-visit for anyone who appreciates good food and a lively atmosphere. It offers a beautiful taproom, with beer produced on site to go along with some great food, and they also often have live music. Their motto on top of the dinner menu says it all. “Good Beer. Good Food. Good People.”
Tap That in New Liskeard also impressed me. I stumbled upon it the first night, with its main entrance in the back alley, it had a sort of speakeasy vibe. But when I went inside, things were hopping with live music and a creative menu. The fish tacos were delicious. This was a great spot to unwind after a day on the trails.
Zante's Bar and Grill, another gem, offered a more intimate dining experience with cozy ambiance and farm-to-table cuisine that was obviously very thoughtfully prepared. My duck was perfectly cooked and plated, a feast for both the eyes as well as the stomach. They pride themselves here on serving local meats, produce, along with a nice paring of local craft beers and spirits.
Each and every meal I had on this trip was a delightful experience, showcasing a solid and diverse culinary scene in Temiskaming Shores. Incredible for a community of only around ten thousand people!
Devil’s Rock
One of the final highlights of the trip was when I embarked on a short hike to the top of Devil’s Rock on Lake Temiskaming. This iconic landmark offers breathtaking views from what I am told is the highest sheer vertical cliff in Ontario. It offers an incredibly epic view over the lake and surrounding area. The hike itself is short and easy for almost anyone, and the payoff at the top is well worth the effort. Standing atop Devil's Rock, looking out over the frozen expanse of Lake Temiskaming, was a moment of pure awe and tranquility. The snowmobilers going across the lake below looked like ants, and I’m told there are some nesting Osprey nearby, although I was not lucky enough to spot them. Either way, an absolute must-see when in the area, and it is just down the road from Haileybury.
Summing It Up
If I could really sum it all up, Temiskaming Shores stands is all about its variety which makes it a great spot to visit again and again. There are few places I can think of that offer so many different ecologies, sceneries, and terrains. Couple that with the consistent snow conditions of Northeastern Ontario, and this spot is top of my list for staging snowmobile trips for years to come. From the welcoming atmosphere, incredible views and accessibility of the Waterfront Inn to the exciting trails and delicious meals along the way, every aspect of the trip was memorable. The beautiful downtown areas of New Liskeard and Haileybury, combined with the thrill of riding through Elk Lake, made for a well-rounded and incredibly fulfilling experience.
Whether you're a seasoned snowmobiler or new to the sport, Temiskaming Shores offers something for everyone. The community's dedication to maintaining excellent trails, along with the stunning natural beauty of the area, makes it a top snowmobile destination. If you haven't yet experienced the magic of snowmobiling in Temiskaming Shores, it's time to plan your trip and discover all that this incredible region has to offer.
